This is a forum to discuss the best methods to 3D print a car bodywork and chassis in 3D
For instance:
What materials are available and which are the best for both prototype model and real world model?
What is the cost/benefice between materials regarding use (prototype or real use)?
what kind of printer would it be necesary to print a real scale prototype of a really smal car (ex. Renault Twizy)?
Is it necesary to do it by parts? How big is the maximum for those parts to be easily printable?
Lest´s start with some answers to those questions!
The biggest 3D printer seems to be in India, as far as I understand the technology to make a 3D printer is not difficult to achieve, so why are there so few big 3D printers?
Hi Singlefonts! Thanks for your post!
you are proposing a CMC machine to sculpt a 3D model, that is a different concept most of all if you think about doing a study mold more than a finished product. However that may open a different discussion. I still would go for 3d printing and use the parts for a finished prototype.
Am I loosing something?
I've been using 3D printers since 1999. I also have a professional unit at home (BNC3D Sigma 2017). All I can say is that the techology behind 3D printing with fused filaments (FFF) is not mature enough yet. Imagine when inkjet printers came to maket 25 years ago. You had to keep changing the settings until the printer produced a simple ink print. The same is true today with the FFF printers. I have 17% rejected parts despite my experience. There is a reason people don't make very large FFF printers, a small diviation in the lower layers would become a big error by the time you are finished.
We all are aticipating a more capable 3D printing technology. YouTube has a few example of large prints, they don't tell you how many times they tried to print the same part till they got it.
Good luck my Friend.
Kamyar
Mine is bigger... I guess you know that one
Size matter... maybe that one too
The one you do not know is ... the bigger the size, the bigger the errors, hence... precision matters, and to obtain precision, the rep rap FDM models are out in space...
I can build you an FDM printer the size of a shipping container but...
If it is built by the standards to make it cheap, the output will be not commercial quality, and if I build it to make you classy cozy commercial quality output prints, than the printer will not be chap, at all.
Where lays the difference?
One thing is you cannot have shaking, belt dis-alignments, tooth skipping, belt elasticity, and precision in the same design. ANd what do the most FDM desk top size machines use? Belts. Why? Cheap, easy to work with, no engineering needed to study it.
On the other hand same size of a cheap FDM desktop, say 500 bucks ready to print, if you go ball screw motion powered, with encoder steppers, we talk 4 gran minimum, and the quality of the output goes up a lot, I mean some 200% or more.
Scale that to a cube the size of a 40Ft container, and you have belt technology on wheeled porters giving you a price of maybe 10 gran (just throwing numbers here) compared with ball screw technology that on a 6 meters lenght with 2.5 meters width might cost you 100 gran like nothing, plus assembling it.
How do I know that? Well, I am preparing to make me one, that is how.
I've had the best luck using UV Resin 3D Printers. I have a Anycubic Proton I use. I find the filament 3D printers create too much sanding and you have to sand it real slow as to not heat up the object. UV Resin eliminates that process for the most part, I just put a light sanding to it for primer.
Haha, completely correct. I have a large size printer of 1000*1600*400mm and I want to use it to print car interiors. As a result, a car tailgate was printed and failed repeatedly (the bottom layer was raised, broken wires, split layers, material failure, and the entire piece was detached). It took me a month to succeed. It was later changed to Pellet Extrusion for improvement, and the iteration of the fourth version of the plan is currently underway.
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