What printers have you used or have access to?
Do you have any good or bad experiences?
Anet A8 (I have this printer):
advantages: it is cheap, DIY kit, you can upgrade
disadvantages: I replaced DC power supply after one month. Electric fire issues are main problem for this printer. some parts must be upgraded.
Anycubic Delta (I have this printer):
advantages: print quality is very good, delta is a little bit faster
disadvantages: cost, I have some problems with some prints which can not be easily separated from the bed. Therefore , I am using some tapes.
This printer is great for ultra-high detail prototyping. We sometimes print out nonfunctional assembled circuit boards to make sure it will fit in our applications and it even prints the small leads for surface mount components.
All that said, the parts are very brittle and cannot be used for real world applications.
We sometimes are able to use these for fixtures and components, however you have to build thick solid components.
Materials are expensive $$$. Printer is expensive $$$$$.
Prusa I3 MK3
By far one of our favorite printers. Wide range of material options. Great support staff. Good prototype and functional parts. We would consider this to be the best bang for you buck.
The downside it there are long lead times with the printer due to demand. I would also suggest building an enclosure for it.
Materials are priced well $$. Printer is priced well $$$$.
MakerBot Replicator 2
I have one I will sell if anyone is interested.
I would consider this entry level. PLA material only.
It was a good proof of concept for us, but we have outgrown it.
MakerBot Replicator 5th Gen
Don't. Just Don't.
Objet/Stratasys Connex 500 (Polyjet)
Required more effort to keep it clean and working well, when compared to other equipment in the lab. Sidewalls were always rough. Easy support removal for delicate details and features. Rather expensive to operate due to material purges, and material which expires.
3D systems SL3500 (stereolithography)
Initially the resins were a bit disappointing, but those are much better these days. Cleanup of uncured resin is a hassle, but parts can be processed to a very good finish.
Stratasys F270 (FDM)
Pretty idiot proof, and great for a small shop or office environment. Support is difficult to remove when not water soluble. Finish level of parts is low compared to other printing methods.
UnionTech RS PRO 600 (stereolithography)
A lot like the SL3500 machines mentioned above, only with a larger platform to build on.
Mcore Iris (LOM, paper based)
Total piece of crap. I hated this machine and the parts it made.
The Stratasys Fortus 900ms
Tarantula Tevo, with strong upgrade (double z, metal brackets, linear guides etc...), since the whole stability of the sys in original version is poor. With double nozzle chimera hotend.
Below 50 mm/sec it works properly
Ultimaker 2 extended clone with upgrade (better frame fixing, alu head, z pillars support, motor damping. With an ultimaker original board it works perfectly with reduced noise. Up to 60 mm/sec with no problem
Anycubic linear plus with alu corners, spool top support, fan cooling for stepper drivers, smoothers on drivers.
Good speed and quality, very low noise unit.
I just now created and made the best 3D printer I have ever designed. It cost me serious design and build time. I actually designed it especially for the Grabcad community. I was aiming to get my first badge on my account with this one.
However I am in distress now, I don't know what to do after reading a comment a couple of weeks back in the Grabcad Community User Group (How to avoid theft of 3D models comment) about china stealing thousands of users uploads and selling them for production. Truthfully I am quite devastated putting all this design and build time in to a project and now I am worried to upload it.
This 3D printer is more than a match for others on the market. What if someone else rips off my work and then makes a giant success story out of my design.
I have to sit here and watch them get rich knowing that is my work. I just don't think I could take a sucker punch like that !
I may have to just sit on it until I get the time to go through all the creative commons copyright or something.
I don't know what to do any advice would be helpful.
My first printer is the K8200, I also made the CAd drawings for it on grabcad.
This printer sucks hard, the 3mm filament is a pain in the ass since it breaks by itself in a dry environment. And everyone knows you need to keep your filament dry. And when it breaks you need to reload it, next issue was reloading was a pain in the ass.
Also the bed was not straight out of the box.
Heating bed was painfully slow.
I bought after that a Geeetech prusa w, which is pretty good for that price.
Now I am thinking I am going to buy the real Prusa MK3.
At my work we have the makerbot 5th gen, it prints pretty good in PLA, but that is it, it cannot do anything else. It prints very nice, but for the rest it is way overpriced for only pla printing.
MakerBot Replicator 2x.
I use this one at the local Fablab.
I don't use it much anymore, but it was usually reliable in ABS.
I don't print in PLA as most of my prints have to survive being in a hot vehicle.
TIKO super early bird and later release.
I gave up on it.
It was getting better but the kids running the campaign were just too arrogant
for their own good. They had an innovative idea on the construction.
But they tried to reinvent the wheel and bit off more than they could chew.
Form 1+ and Form 2.
Lovely little SLA printers. the Form 1+ isn't exceptional at the small mechanical
parts we print. It really shines with organic shapes
The Form 2 is better in almost every way.
Especially with the protected laser path. We had to clean the Form 1+ mirrors
every week. We haven't had to clean the Form 2 mirrors at all. (over a year)
Markforged Mark Two
It is expensive. But I have never been as impressed with the print quality from
an FDM printer. The ease of removing supports is mind-blowing.
Their software is cloud-based (i don't like that).
Also some of the workflow is counter intuitive.
The carbon fiber material is exceptional.
Currently building a large format FDM printer.
Backed Rhino 3D printer on Kickstarter. His construction was abysmal.
So we are building our own and useing the electronics from it.
Chronologically - Rostock max V2, Markforged Mark One, Flashforge Creator Pro, Zortrax M200, Makerbot Replicator 2X, Makergear M2, Makergear M3, Stratasys Dimension1200es, Stratasys uPrint, Formlabs Form 2, Prusa i3 MK3, Creality CR-10S, Lulzbot Taz 6, Stratasys Objet260, Stratasys Objet30 Prime, 3DSystems Projet 4500, EOS Formiga P110
And now built my own printer.
I have access to all printers and I love working in all of them. Well !!! Except in Replicator 2X.
Stratasys FDM Printers:
Fortus 250mc (replaced by the F123 Series)
F123 series F370
These are great machines. I run them in my professional life and I have to say as a former designer, it is amazing to not be restricted by DFM anymore.
The 250mc is a well built, albeit slower machine. It produces accurate parts. I primarily use these machines (I have two) for our prototypes and proof of concepts.
The F370 is an amazingly fast, sleek and accurate machine. It is by far the easyist of my machines to use. It doesn't get much more "plug and play" than this.
The 450mc is a very powerful machine, being able to run a large variety of materials and the ease of operation is fantastic.
3rd Generation Cube
I've had this machine since 2013 and it runs ok. There are feed issues with the drive wheels gouging into the material, and the material breaking in the feed tube that flexes with the head movements. Also not a fan having to use 3D systems material cartridges.
Wants...I would love to get my hands on a makerbot as well as an Anet8
Have a Raise 3D N2+ with alternate Bondtech extruders - really solid machines for the money.
Reliable results with everything from PLA to Carbon Fiber loaded Nylon.
While its only designed for extruding up to 310C and a bed temp of 110C (which rules out Peek and Ultem) it offers good precision and large build volume - 300x300x600 on an N2+
Ultimaker 2 Extended+ and Ultimaker 3 are very precise 3D printers and are used when you need prints of high and good quality. They are equipped with dual extruders so that you can print sophisticated prints. In addition you can print a lot of filament types. Also they are easy to use.
Ultimaker 3's are strong machines, fit for almost any school/workspace, with a large build plate and dual extrusion, and extremely easy software, you can't go wrong. The two cons for myself are the time that maintenance can take (I did let them get dilapidated to be fair) and the price, I wouldn't pay 5k for almost anything.
The Stratasys Mojo is an extremely strong machine, this tiny workhorse has never failed us, literally. Prints perfect every time, but thats what you get when you get a fully professional 3D printer. The three cons for myself are the build size (kinda small), the fact that you throw away the plastic build-plates every time, and the price (I can't imagine buying a personal one).
I am gaining experience this summer with my new Tevo Tarantula (I'm creating a home shop) I'm planning on fully upgrading it (Dual extrusion, fan, filament holder, support, etc.) I hope it works well and I'd love to hear anything you guys have to say about the tarantula. I'm sadly only choosing the Tarantula because it has dual extrusion, If the Black Widow did, I would definitely buy it!
My first 3D printer was an AIO daVinci by XYZ. It was okay, 3d scanner was gimmicky and didn't work too well and they tried to make their filament cartridge proprietary but that was really easy to get around. They've learned from that and have become more open source. The bed leveling was a nightmare and unable to repeat the same leveling testing results when changing nothing. It lasted a little over a year and broke.
My next 3D printer was a Lulzbot mini. Worked pretty good and was able to print most things I needed printed. I had another print head that was able to print flexible material. I find myself not really needing to print too much flexible material. The print volume was fairly small, maybe around 6 inches square. But like I said, I was able to print most things I needed.
My 3rd 3D printer I moved up to the bigger Lulzbot Taz6 and got the new dual printhead. Nearly double the print size volume from the mini (I hated being constrained by the mini's print volume) and has a bit more capabilities with the dual head such as being able to print support material which sometimes can be pretty important for the part I'm printing. The dual head can also print flexible material without needing a special printhead. It can print different filament material at the same time and obviously different colors.
if you think creative commons copyrights (or any copyrights, for that matter) are going to stop people from stealing your design and making money off of it (you can limit it to chinese if you want, but i hope you don't think they're the only ones in the business of theft), sorry dude. Not that pursuing a creative commons copyright would be a bad decision, but it wouldn't really solve the issue you're trying to prevent. It would; however, make it available to a community of people that might like your design and actually build it and help you get a couple operational iterations out there... after that, if it looks like it would be marketable, then you could proactively seek out companies/resources that can help you realize it; which you might find that some of the people you're worried about (those dirty chinese, 开玩笑) might be able to help you make it profitable. The 3D printer world is moving at a decent speed, so you could just keep worrying about uploading it and watch as other design something on par or better, and then not have anything to worry about. ;) if you're serious about pursuing it, another good thing to do is to talk to people responsible for some of the numerous successful and unsuccessful crowd-funded projects...
i started out with an FLSUN kit that I received as a birthday gift. I've since built a couple homebrew delta printers (comparable to the Ultibots D300VS, but before they started selling kits), and am building a variant of the "D-bot" core-xy printer... that i might finish soon if i stop making variations to it.
It's cool to hear your experiences working with awesome machines that I've drooled over in the past!
Very reliable machine with great results. Very good ist wide variety of techniccal materials.
Well working Polyjet printer with infinite possibilities of printing parts with material mixtures and very good surfaces.
Lasersintermachine for metals, we are printig parts in maragings steel, stainless steel and aluminium.
MakerBot Replicator 5th Gen
Easy printer....just working.
A little bit more complicate than the replicator....but it works
I m using HP printer and it is working good. A perfect printer. Very durable and smooth surfaces are obtained but after some time jamming issues occur I was ready to fix it but I was not getting the proper solution then I visited to HP Printer Support they provide me best support and gave me service to make my printer more durable and perfect.
My first printer: Ender 3. Seems like a good starting point until I become more proficient and start to improve my equipment. Seems good so far....
Hp 4210 Multi Jet Fusion
15" X 11.2" X 15" build volume
prints in 12 hours the full volume
high resolution end use plastics at low cost
We are a commercial parts manufacturer (www.conceptualmanufacturing.com) and use a Markforged fibre printers for production grade parts. They are extremely reliable, excellent resolution and the Onyx material gives a part with properties well above most commercial grade printing polymers. In addition, if you require true strength the ability to incorporate continuous fibre into the part, rather than chopped, opens up a new realm of what printed parts can be used for.
I have used a multitude of 3D printers, all of which have been bought from 3D Printers Bay. Among them, Wanhao Duplicator I3 Plus Mark 2 3D Printer and Tevo 3D Little Monster Large Delta 3D Printerare far superior to the others. Though they involve a bit of extra cost than the others, you would be surprised to see the quality of the final prints